For AMV Journal, Michaël Azoulay, founder of the Marseille-based brand, looks back on 20 years of challenges, success stories and projects.
Photos: American Vintage
How much energy did you put into launching American Vintage 20 years ago?
It took a lot of elbow grease and power of persuasion. At the time, we had to prove ourselves and persuade the retailers and showrooms who were just discovering us. But we did it!
Were you always a go-getter?
I think so, yes. I had faith in this project. I believed in it, even if it took tons of energy to make it work. Every season, we had to make our way to the frontline again. And our tenacity finally paid off. Of course, looking back, I would have loved it if people had jumped on board right away, because we went through some pretty tough times. But the fact that we were constantly put to the test during those first years also strengthened our support, self-confidence, and team spirit.
We hear more and more about the virtues of failure. Can you share an example with us?
Sure. During the brand’s very first years, we had asked one of our partners, a factory, for a dress with a specific stonewash. After several trials, I got a call from them: nothing was working and they wanted to throw out the prototypes, which they considered botched. After much pleading, we convinced them to send the prototypes to us in Marseille. When we opened the package, we saw a dress in a horrible colour. They were right: it was impossible to sell. However, its texture was unique, ultra-soft, worn-looking, full of emotion. For months, with this “mistake” as our reference, we worked on the texture of many pieces that ended up becoming incredible bestsellers.
You talk about the unique texture of American Vintage pieces. How would you describe it to people who aren’t familiar with your materials?
Our materials are very soft, very “washed”, as if they had been worn for many years, but without losing their thickness or durability. It took a long time to develop the perfect dyeing and washing cycles in the factory to achieve this unique “hand” (texture). This is how we “feminized” cotton – a term that suits us well and that ended up becoming our signature.
In terms of the brand’s growth, what was the crucial turning point?
The real boom dates back to 2012. We had less middlemen and could give free rein to our creativity. We developed more complete collections, with knitwear, fleece, coats, denim … Little by little, the brand started to offer a real wardrobe – and our retailers were right behind us. Without that, we’d still be just a T-shirt brand.
Where do you think the brand could go in the next five years?
Toward new challenges! There’s a lot to do for the men’s and kids’ collections. I also want AMV to be a brand that is more professional when it comes to customer service and retail. In-house, I want to continue focusing on training. In terms of recruitments at our points of sale, we’re choosing profiles that are more and more inspiring, with backgrounds that show an open mind and a taste for adventure. I want American Vintage to be a place where people can own their personalities.
20 years … What a journey! Did you think you would end up where you are now?
No! I didn’t see myself employing over 1,000 people or starting a training centre … But I really wanted to learn, to grow, to advance, to be free. These 20 years show us that with flexibility, an open mind, and a mix of retail, wholesale and training, anything is possible.
What did you learn about yourself during this adventure?
You can’t change your DNA. When it comes down to it, I’m still the same person, but I hope that I’ve gradually become a better one too. Back then, since I had to fight for my place, I was pushier. Today, I can step back, disappear for a while … and then show up again. I learned the value of patience. Going through crisis situations, like the subprimes in 2008, or Covid in 2020, also taught us humility.
Who were your clients yesterday and who are they today?
Right from the start, key celebrities followed us and believed in us. This is the case of the Birkin family, who loved our casual T-shirts. We’ve always appealed to people who put fabric first and who love colour palettes that waver between strong pigments and off-white, neither too clean nor too trashy, with almost no black at all. Our community is not a cluster – and I’m very proud of this. It’s a cosmopolitan mix that breaks down social walls and brings very different worlds together.
You mentioned colour. Would you say that you have a rosy outlook? La vie en rose?
It’s true that there’s a lot of pink in our collections. I have to admit that I’m not a big fan of pure black. Our pieces are all about simplicity, lightness. I love white, cream, ecru … But also “non-colours” (mocha, sage green, butter yellow) or very bold shades (spicy red, neon yellow, ultraviolet). This expresses our vision of life: nothing is frozen in place; nothing is just black or white. But the framework is there and so is the pragmatism.
What do you wish for the next 20 years?
To see American Vintage keep growing and inspiring people. And maybe to see my family members take up the reins later. This entrepreneurial adventure is also theirs and that of our teams. In all cases, I’d like it to continue … and even evolve! Today, we’re present on three continents: Europe, America and Asia. We can go far.
AMV Journal is a space dedicated to encounters, discovery and travel. Every week, explore the musts, portraits and inspirations of American Vintage and its creation studio.