Food critic on the Très Très Bon show, music journalist, occasional DJ and a chef for his friends, at age 25, Jordan Moilim could certainly be considered a master social isolation chef. A maestro of pasta, this Parisian has been giving his full-gluten “Confine Bouche” lessons live from his Instagram account @jomlm for two weeks now. His audience? A hungry horde of foodies whose pantries are overflowing with pasta. And us.
Where does this passion for pasta come from?
My love of pasta came from a love of food in general. I come from an Algerian family and food has always been important for me, socially and culturally. Even so, when I was a kid, pasta wasn’t something I really ate much. The only childhood memory I have of pasta is noodles in a meat confit soup that my aunt used to make.
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So what triggered this passion for pasta?
Three years ago, we went to Naples to shoot Très Très Bon. In the evening, we had dinner in a tiny osteria (Hostaria Dalle Sorelle 1910). I was blown away by their dishes of pasta to share: there was pasta with courgettes and parmesan, pasta with crab… It was simple, delicious and warming. When I got back to Paris, I made my first spaghetti alla puttanesca for some friends. Ever since, I’ve been trying to decipher the hidden science of pasta.
Science?
Yes! First and foremost, good pasta is about a perfect texture. Also, the possibilities are endless and everyone loves it. Not to mention that kitchens have been pushing back borders in recent years and now everything is allowed. You can invent linguine with miso (fermented salty soybean paste) and mirin (a sweet sake used for seasoning) if you like. The playing field has no limits.
Why did you start Confine Bouche at this time?
It kind of happened naturally. I have a smartphone, I love pasta and I cook pasta for myself… It took no extra effort for me to film myself preparing pasta. I started out with pasta with lemon and it took off right away. It was the right equation: people are on their own with lots of pasta. They have both the time and the ingredients. The idea is that they can prepare a new pasta dish and wow everyone in less than 5 minutes.
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What’s so special about pasta?
There’s something sociological about pasta. It’s the simplest dish in the world, the first one that you learn how to make, but it can also be a gastronomic creation. My second recipe, for example, tuna pasta, was reposted by the urban media YARD. For a lot of young people, tuna pasta is kind of a prison meal, something you make when you have nothing else. Ali and Booba rapped about it in 2000 in “La lettre” (Mauvais Œil) at the time of their rap duo Lunatic. Between foodies and everyone else, it’s funny to see what a different impression people can have of the same dish.
What’s the essential step not to skip, even if you feel like you messed up the rest of the recipe?
The really cool moment is called “montecare”. This happens after you pour the pasta onto the sauce. You add some parmesan and some of the cooking water to create this coating texture, not too dense or too liquid, which binds it all together. To do this, you have to observe your pan closely. You have to almost talk to it and reassure it!
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In these troubled times, in terms of grocery shopping, we can’t necessarily choose the supermarkets or shops we can go to. What are some easy-to-find pasta brands that you recommend to start out with?
I’d say De Cecco (especially the bronze-drawn pasta) and Rummo. These will always be better than Barilla, Lustucru or Panzani. And, when the isolation period is over, I recommend buying Mancini, sold in Alessandra Pierini’s fine food shop in the 9th arrondissement of Paris.
What will your next recipes be?
I still have some sausage from my butcher and some celery. So I think I’ll try a stew with fennel seeds, parmesan and white wine. I also have sardines and harissa… In short, I have enough stuff to get me through this isolation.
AMV Journal is a space dedicated to encounters, discovery and travel. Every week, explore the musts, portraits and inspirations of American Vintage and its creation studio.